By Haleema SS
Hung above guests’ head, the statements from designer Maria Grazia Chiuri were strong. One read “Women are the moon that moves the tides”, another “When women strike the world stops” and the word “Consent” was repeated numerously. Each message flashed bright colours and felt incredibly relevant in the week of a win by women against the convicted sex offender and film producer Harvey Weinstein.
Maria Grazia’s message read and felt crystal clear as she told Vogue: “Consent means that you listen to what people say. We’re in a time when it’s difficult to have that attitude: to listen and to understand. So, I think consent is a strong word for today.”. But was this amplified, feminist voice presented in the collection? The short answer, no.
The first outfit featured a masculine style suit and this mannish theme was carried throughout the collection with the inclusion of baker boys caps and black ties. However, there were many contrasts in the show such as a 1970s boho-chic style was revived by a shearling bomber, bandanas, denim head-to-toe outfits and lots of fringe which was then followed (unexpectedly) by military boots and Mary Jane shoes. Wellington boots as seen at Bottega Veneta, Versace and Prada was (thankfully) present. Also, fishnet stockings were seen with all the varieties of shoes (clearly a pushing trend for this season).
An immense amount of plaid was in the collection and pops of cargo print, vest sweaters, tassels and leather made their way down the runaway. With the different fabrications and prints meshed together, it did work as the colour palette (black, beige, grey and the surprising shade of sage) was very minimal.
Though, in the practical sense, the collection was fit for a winter’s wardrobe but in the context of questioning historically-complexed issues regarding power and sexuality, Dior felt flat. The soft take on a strong message felt fresh but not memorable. The absence of urgency in the collection didn’t assert Maria Grazia’s voice, rather it became hidden in structured clothes which were nice in their own mesmerising way, but certainly not audacious which is what every women’s emancipatory movement requires.
My favourite outfits:
Style Species 